Several people have asked how to do the upgrade to TMC Stepper drivers, which are both quieter and have better print quality. DaHai Zhu has some awesome videos on the A5 - and he's now working on a series of 3 videos that make it really easy to install the TMC in a variety of methods.
If you haven't already, I definitely recommend you check out his channel! Toggle navigation. Samuel Pinches Posts: 2, Administrator. Thanked by 1 fmj Post edited by Samuel Pinches on December September I am a new A5 user and I wanted initially to check my Vref on stepper drivers when I noticed there is no potentiometer on the driver to set VRef Picture inclosed.
Stepper Driver Upgrades: TMC2100, TMC2130, TMC2208
You have the stock A drivers from JGAurora. September edited September But, I had thought that they were just specially designed for that motherboard on that specific printer Post edited by Samuel Pinches on September November What happens when cooling of new drivers fails.
Get proper fan before upgrade. December edited December Hi Sam. Some information why that small change but loosing hardware compatibility was done at all?
It looks it was "discussed" already here Post edited by netzmark on December December I am sorry, but I have not done this modification and I am not knowledgeable of the details of what changed between 1. You may have to try and see. I have the question about the currents settings. What's going on with this about, how to understand it? For me Z is replaced with Y. Got this working on two A They are somewhat different, for the poti is not working as explained by Da Hai. And current is messured from poti to ground as on the old drivers.
Layer shifts are history - even with tremendeously increased speed rates. AndreSchramm Posts: 2 Member. January edited January I adjusted the Vrefs according to the Dai Hai video X0. Would anyone have a suggestion? Post edited by AndreSchramm on January NOTE: This setup is pretty much outdated. Since I do not own the Ender 3 anymore, I will not be making an updated guide.
The one drawback is that you will be losing the built in SD Card support but there is a way to add it back. You are able to choose any stepper motor drivers you wish for though. For instance you can keep to the stock A Stepper Motor Drivers if you would like to save a little bit of money. You also have the option to change out the case fan if you would like. Noctuas are the most popular and are generally much quieter than the stock fan. We have options for this.
We can have the options of 40x40x10mm or 40x40x20mm and 5v or 12v for each. The 40x40x20mm 12v would move the most air through the case and you can plug it in to the mainboard fan slot so it is not running all the time like the 5v would. But here are the links for each option:. Before you can do anything, you need to print a case for the new mainboard. These prints will vary based on what printer you have:.
I printed the original case made by Michael at Teaching Tech and found that the screws for the top and bottom were about 8mm off. I modified the case to account for this defference. The stock fan for the enclosure is set for a 40x40x10mm fan. I have also made an option for a 40x40x20mm fan.
Both of these options can be found on Thingiverse. The case that Michael made was designed for the Ender 3 Pro and can be found on Thingiverse. The case allows for a 40x40x10mm fan but I have also modified that case for a 40x40x20mm fan and can be found in the comments section. I highly recommend printing some sort of cable protector for your printer.A4988 VS TMC2208
The extrusion railing can be very sharp and easily slice through the outer coating of wires and possibly causing a short.It's not difficult to set up. Note: this Instructable is meant for the general-use LPCbased SKR boards -- it does not apply to the "Pro", "Mini", or any of the other models aimed at specific printer brands or use cases. This will put you on that branch, even with 2.
When you're sure Marlin and PlatformIO are ready, go ahead and load your Marlin configs into your favorite editor or IDE you'll do the necessary tweaking later in this Instructable. If you're using the SKR v1. You can plug it back in later. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. I use Eryone driver modules the amber board above, leftwhich seem to be based on some reference board, as they're the same as number of other brands.
There may also be a jumper on the right assuming you're holding the module with the bottom facing you and the diagnostic holes to the right. If you have this kind, then if you hold the module with the chip and such facing you, and the potentiometer and diagnostic holes to your leftthere'll be one set of jumper pads on the right, and one set near the middle.
There may also be a jumper on the left. There are at least two brands that put the chip and such on top, or did in the recent past Watterott and BigTreeTech.
Use your soldering iron to bridge this middle pair of pads together. Most of these have their three-pad jumper placed near the middle of the header like on the white module pictured abovewhere the older modules have a two-pad jumper. Simple, right? In one variant made by Eryone the second of the two amber boards above, lower-rightthis three-pad jumper is not in the middle like usual, but instead is positioned way over near one edge where the potentiometer would normally be found, next to the three diagnostic holes, and aligned parallel to the edge of the driver module and there's a two-pad jumper on the other end next to a resistor.
In these 3-pad-jumper drivers, which pair of the jumper's pads should be shorted together technically depends on what SKR version you'll use the module on.
But, let's make it simple: just solder-bridge all three pads together. This configuration will work on all types of controller boards, regardless of brand, so long as the controller board still has a standard MS config block between the driver module's headers. If you have one of the parts-on-top driver modules mentioned earlier, but with a three pad jumper, do the same thing on that one - short all three pads together.
I have yet to find an example of this type driver module, but I'm sure they exist, or will soon enough since the two-pad jumper is the older version.
These may include the "v3. Check the top of the driver module also Keep the 0-ohm link or existing solder bridge in place if the 0-ohm link falls off, don't worry, just solder all three pads together.
If your drivers have a three-pad jumper, possibly with a 0-ohm link on one side:. You'll either have to hack your way into usability, or get new drivers that can be used with this Instructable. If your driver module is of the type with two pads on the middle jumper, or it has no jumper at all but comes from the factory claiming to be UART-ready, then you will most likely need to make a solder bridge on the top side of the driver module to connect the PDN pin to the unused pin next to it on the module's header.
Some driver modules may not actually need this bridge, but if you've reached this step, just make the bridge anyway -- its presence won't hurt anything, and this eliminates a possible point of confusion. This unused pin is most likely unmarked, or may be labeled "NC". As you can see on my Eryone modules, the manufacturer put the OpenHardware logo next to it. We do this because on the controller board, that unused pin happens to be routed to the MS jumper header under the driver module, making for a convenient place to pick up the UART signal on controller boards that don't have UART support hard-wired in, without having to muck about with cutting traces or flipping pins to the top side of the driver modules.
For whichever axis you're working on, remove all shunts from the board's MS config block. This is single-wire UART mode, so the patch wires need no resistors or Y-splits the heat shrink tubing in the middle of my patch wires is just a simple splice, since I re-used wires with Dupont connectors from other random, discarded electronics. If your driver module is one of the newer BigTreeTech ones with a 0-ohm link on its UART jumper, and three pins sticking out of the top:.
Connect one end of one of these patch wires to the middle of the three pins. Affix the the plastic connector housing to only one end of the patch wire -- leave the other connector bare.TMC is an ultra-quiet two-phase stepper motor drive chip, continuous drive current 1.
The flexible microPlyer interpolation unit provides up to subdivisions, allowing perfect sinusoidal control even in systems with limited pulse frequencies; these are also designed because stealthChop2 ultra-quiet technology is widely used in 3D printing.
Compatible with existing 3D printer electronics, eliminating the expensive costs of redesign. It can replace the original TMC, lower heat, especially for 3D printing market.
Therefore, the reference voltage of the driver module should not exceed 1V. At the same time, the driver module must be dissipated, otherwise it will affect the life of the driver module.
The best way to set the motor current is by measuring the voltage on the Vref pin 0…2. The maximum settable motor current is 1. Vref measures Gnd and the voltage at the middle of the potentiometer. Do not connect the motor when measuring the voltage, otherwise it is easy to burn the driver. Power should be connected when measuring voltage, do not just connect USB power supply. Please pay special attention to directions! You can use every RS serial adapter with V logic levels e.While the "Made in China" DRV stepper driver boards are mostly near or identical clones of the original Pololu DRV stepper driver boards, the A driver boards are mostly near or identical clones of the StepStick stepper driver boards.
How inexpensive can these stepper driver boards get? This situation begs for some interesting questions: is it worth getting DRV stepper driver boards instead of the more popular A boards or not? Which one is the better choice for my 3D printer? Are there any caveats to using either driver board that I should be aware of?
This page is an attempt to provide sufficient information to make a rational choice and answer these and other related questions, if possible.
I am pretty confident that the Allegro A is an utterly tested and proven solution to drive stepper motors in RepRap 3D printers, and this fact should not be overlooked.
As long as the following three conditions are met, these Made in China Allegro A stepper driver boards seem to be bullet-proof workhorses:. Note that the original StepStick stepper driver boards use 0. However, the Made in China A stepper driver boards use various current sense resistors depending on the manufacturer usually either 0.
The current sense resistors are the two small black components next to the main chip. Compare the pictures above and check the detail below: the green Made in China A board was fit with 0.
So it is very important that you closely examine your stepper driver boards and use the exact values for the current sense resistors when calculating the Vref formula see below.
As mentioned above, inserting an A stepper driver the wrong way around will kill it and possibly damage the RAMPS board as soon as power is applied, so pay attention to the correct orientation of the stepper driver boards when inserting them in their sockets on the controller board. Be aware that some stepper boards may look like mirrors of other boards of the same type, so always verify the pin labels. Do not assume the trim pot always goes on one end of the board or another, for example.
As shown in some of the pictures above, some of the DRV stepper driver boards have the trimpot on the other edge of the PCB compared to the A boards, so pay attention to the correct orientation of the stepper driver boards when inserting them in their sockets on the controller board.
The first thing to do when using these DRV drivers is to turn the trimpot clockwise and decrease Vref to around 0. Another important thing to note is that the Made in China copy is not quite the same as a genuine pololu DRV board. The exposed via, which is connected to Vref on the genuine board, is actually connected to the bridge B power supply pin 11 of the DRV on the Made in China board.
Pins 12 and 13 are located just adjacent to the via. If you look at the traces on the board, the via goes to pin 11, then there are pins 12 and 13, and then the last pin is Yes, you can! Actually I went ahead and tested this mix on my reference P3Steel. I guess I had a nasty resonance with the Y-axis stepper and the way its A driver was configured, but now the resonance is completely gone, and the printer prints with much less noise and vibration than before.
Unless some unforeseen problems spring up in the next few hours of printing, I am probably never going back to the previous configuration. Note that some important technical characteristics from the respective datasheets of the ICs are not directly comparable. For example, the DRV is fully specified in terms of thermal characteristics, the A is not. Another important characteristic that unfortunately is not directly comparable is RDSon, which is specified at different current levels in the respective IC datasheets.
It is not yet determined how much of a real impact the small aluminum heatsinks shown in the pictures above have on cooling the ICs, as both stepper driver ICs depend much more on proper PCB layout and solder pad contact as well as proper airflow, remember!
This is because both stepper driver ICs have an exposed metal pad under the chip that contacts the PCB and this is the "path of least resistance" for heat dissipation. The secondary path for heat dissipation is through the package leads and in this aspect the DRV provides for possibly slightly better power dissipation compared to the leadless A It is my understanding that dissipation through the top of the ICs is almost irrelevant here.
From RepRap. Jump to: navigationsearch. Category : Stepper motor drivers. Navigation menu Personal tools Create account Log in. Namespaces Page Discussion.This guide will only work on the 1.
The changes shown here require knowledge in the field of Arduino IDE, Marlin and electrical engineering and can overwhelm normal users.
Also, I would like to point out possible dangers that exist in certain interventions. All adjustments have been checked for function.
This tutorial is about making the A5 quieter. It is not my intention to explain all possible options of the TMC Like me, most users will buy these stepper drivers just for one reason: to have silence.
I focus on installing and configuring these drivers. Why use only two TMC? The most noise comes from the Y-axis and the X-axis.
UART This! Serial Control of Stepper Motors With the TMC2208, Ramps 1.4 and Marlin
Because the Z-axis rarely moves when printing you do not hear much noise. The TMC can deliver less power than the standard A driver. One Z-axis driver needs to power two motors at the same time. The avaliable motor current is divided between both motors. You rarely hear the extruder motor. If you hear it, then at the retract. The extruder motor, however, requires a lot of torque to press the filament through the nozzle.
Much torque means a lot of electric current. This is exactly what the TMC can not do. So it does not make sense to install this extension when using the TMC I have a 80mm 24V fan with an 3D-printed adapter from Thingiverse only top part connected directly to the power supply via a Zener diode.
The motherboard fan is so quiet that I do not hear it. That's why it runs as long as the A5 is powered. I will not describe the cooling system in this manual. If questions arise I can be contacted via the forum. I do not know if this contact is connected to the driver board.
So one experiences no unpleasant surprises. When inserting the modules into the sockets, it must be noted that the mounting direction is different as with the A driver see photos. This concludes work on the A5 hardware for this project. In order for the drivers to work, the Marlin firmware has to be adjusted.
This can be adjusted in the firmware. Otherwise the motors will run in the wrong direction. Make sure you install the TMC Arduino library or you will get compiler errors about missing files. The 3D printer can now be reassembled. Make sure your X and Y and Z if you also have the extra driver installed and wired are going to correct way otherwise you'll need to make sure you did all the changes to the firmware. User Tools Register Log In.
Site Tools Search. General Info Firmware. How to set the stepper motor current.An have a good luck with upgrades! DRV either work fine or are a pain. The diode circuit solves this for some people, but not for others. There are a lot of poorly-made clone DRVs out there with the incorrect vref circuit, so you end up measuring motor voltage and not vref.
If DRVs work for your motors then goodo. Again genuine seems a good idea. The best seems to be the TMC on the Duet boards. High max current, microstep interpolation, cool running. References here. Also the tmcs seem to have a tendency to whine when ruining in spreadcycle mode 12v. Even at 24 V. The whine i get from my TMC sticks is just horrible.
Almost every single parameter is available for configuration. I have not had the time yet, but it should be possible to remove the nasty whine by some small adjustments over SPI. Generally, the serial motor connection is better than parallel, but the best way is to use 2 stepsticks for 2 motors at Z.
You can connect the Z2 stepstick to E2 on Ramps, and then just enable dual stepper motors in Marlin. I had similar issues with TMC on Z axis, and using two drivers solved it.
Before, the axis was working fine in parallel on A This is my first printer and I have no experience at all!
Upgrade to TMC2208 Stepper Drivers
Is there a really good, step by step on tuning these? They seem rougher running. A are trusty and reliable. Hello MaxRink, Are you using Ramps board? Only the fans can be heard. Compared to the others, these are easier to fit, no tiny soldering. Artur July 26,am